Wednesday 10 February 2016




A Love of Food & Pints 4-The Women, or some of them




The Women

Behind every great bar…is usually a woman…


John Kavanagh The Gravediggers has a long history of strong, inspirational women. Don't be fooled by the name above the door as historically it owes a lot of its survival and success to the involvement of hard working determined women.
In Ireland women were not allowed to enter a public house till 1958, even then they had to be with a male member of their family, this prohibition of women lasted to the 1970s. In the 70s if a woman ordered a Pint, she'd be given a Glass. Pints were considered too manly for a woman.
Some Public Houses welcomed women, those on Moore Street depended on the traders that were predominantly women and had little choice as turning away these formidable women wasn't an option. Sadly like the women traders on Moore Street these trader Pubs have also vanished. With this loss Dublin has lost some of it's character and many of her stories.
We do owe the existence of ‘The Snug’ to women and their being welcomed into Public Houses. A Sung was either a Private Room or a Partition to a bar specially set aside for women to drink out of sight of the men.
John Kavanagh’s still has the remnants of its ‘Private Room’ in the bar. This room could also be hired and some of the ledgers list’s Republican meetings held in this room. The front of the bar was converted into a grocery in the era of Josie McKenna Kavanagh. This was good for business and also allowed the men on the other side of the swinging doors to enjoy their Pints in peace out of view from their own children that were often sent on errands by their mother’s to pick up grain or flour.

John Kavanagh’s strong women goes right back to the beginnings of the pub. The first owner John O’Neill handed the pub over to John Kavanagh when he married his daughter Suzanne back in 1833 a time when women couldn't hold property never mind be a licensee. Suzanne also managed to have twenty four children. Sadly little survives on Suzanne O’Neill Kavanagh or of John Kavanagh, but we do have a picture in the bar that belonged to Suzanne’s father John O’Neill. The picture on wood ‘The Chucker Outter’ painted by Lancashire barge and advertising artist John Pemberley is older than the pub itself and is still on the bar wall, in the same place it has always been. So many generations come and go, and the ‘Chucker Outter’ has seen them all leave through the bar door.

After Suzanne and the first John Kavanagh their son Joseph took over in 1870. Joseph was responsible for installing a shooting range and skittle alley into the back of the bar to generate more business. The gate for the cemetery the pubs main revenue had been relocated to the new Finglas Road. Joseph’s wife Margaret took over the licensee in 1878 at age 52, she battled with the authorities on the new licencing laws. As the expert below details..




HISTORY OF THE DUBLIN CATHOLIC CEMETERIES
By William J. Fitzpatrick, LL.D.
Dublin 1900
The fact has long been notorious that at funerals of the lower orders in Ireland the use of alcoholic drinks had been freely indulged in, mainly with a view to deaden grief; but too often with results which cause pain still more poignant to every sensitive mind. The evils to be dreaded by the opening of public houses in the immediate vicinity of Prospect cemetery led the Board to oppose with vigour the granting of licences for the sale of drink, and it was a wise regulation of the committee to restrict the time for funerals to the earlier hours of the day. When they were not always successful in this effort, they bought up the ground on the opposite side of the road and thus prevented the erection of houses from which intoxicants might be supplied. A large fortune had been realized by the owner of a public house which - soon after the cemetery had been opened - was established at the old entrance-gate, and when, in 1878, the committee decided on closing this gate and making the new entrance near Finglas, they were threatened by the owner with legal proceedings on the plea that she would lose a lucrative business by the change


Margaret was living on Prospect Avenue with her son John Kavanagh and was responsible for hiring Josie McKenna from Howth. Josie is a  woman still remembered by many that still drink in the bar. Josie McKenna was working for her Uncle in his busy hotel in the harbour of Howth North Dublin, at that time Howth was a busy passenger harbour, and her Uncle had a successful business. 
When Josie’s Uncle took a young wife, over 25 years his junior, his new wife also brought with her an even younger sister to live and work in the hotel. Perhaps all those young women where too much?  Josie was hired firstly, as a house servant, then as a  Barmaid. In a short time Josie was wife to Margaret’s son John H Kavanagh, eleven years her junior!



Although John H was named licensee, it’s well known that Josie was the business. She installed the grocery and the bar’s upkeep was different than today, washed, polished floors, dust free cabinets. Drawers filled with produce, sacks of grain and a good steady business from the local families. Drinking was kept the opposite side of the swinging doors, giving men privacy and out of sight from their children on errands. She was ahead of her time and kept a tight ship.  From family stories and reflections of older locals, it seems Josie was a strong force and had good head for business. I imagine her to be strong and fair, not afraid of hard work or voicing an opinion.
Josie and John H had sons, two went into trades of printing and carpentry two joined her in the pub business. Her daughter -in-laws stayed supportive in the background.

It wasn't until Josie’s Grandson Eugene bought the pub from his Uncle and Step-Father was there to be a female figure to make an impression.


Eugene and Kathleen worked side by side to make a success of what was a busy pub but run down family home. Kathleen was also a full time mother to six children; Eugene could enjoy his world-wide marathon running because his wife was running the pub with a good manager and staff. Kathleen would work through pregnancies ensuring the customers were looked after. Hailing from Yorkshire this lass worked long tiring hours at a time when women were still frowned upon in Public Houses.
 Kathleen was also taking care of a large family and undertaking renovations of a crumbling building.
Kathleen & Sinead (daughter)
 Often referred to as ‘The War Office’ by her late husband Eugene but then he also referred to their children as ‘My wife’s children’ luckily she understood his sense of humour and his ambition, together they worked well as a team, and together they saved this bar and it’s heritage. Building the first lounge, on the Northside of the city they created a more luxurious partner to the rustic bar, bringing in a new clientele.  Kathleen continues to work in John Kavanagh’s The Gravediggers and is now licensee. She has a strong sense of fairness and a great work ethic that she has instilled in all her family. Completing a degree and continuing to work as a charitable volunteer locally she has set a standard that will be hard to follow, a truly inspiring, pioneering woman. Kathleen is greatly admired and respected by everyone. Beside Kathleen are her children and Grandchildren ensuring the Kavanagh work ethic continues. Many work closely behind the scenes, but they are all involved, it’s wonderful to see a family work together and at the helm someone that is much loved.  
An inspiring no-nonsense Grandmother.  This Grandmother was the cause of many a broken heart throughout the years without even knowing it. Locals still remark on her quick wit, her charm and natural beauty. Eugene knew he was a lucky man, a rare woman indeed.



Eugene, Ciaran Kathleen, Granddaughter Rebecca (Anne's daughter),
 Robert, Stephen (Anne's sons) & Niall Kavanagh


Alongside Kathleen on a daily basis is her daughter Anne Kavanagh.

Anne Kavanagh, her son Robert & daughter Rebecca


Anne is famed for a warm welcome and even more for those wonderful delicious homemade desserts. And her portion size!  Anne believes in a generous amount, and topped with extras, extra cream, extra ice cream, extra fresh fruit.  Anne remembers coming to the bar on a Sunday with her Dad Eugene to wash the glasses and collect the dirty ones in preparation for the Sunday 3pm madness.  Holy Hour as was the term was actually two hours long. This caused a break in pub trading on a Sunday. Traditionally this was to ensure people went home to have dinner with their family, this wasn't always the case. Anne was eight years old at the time. She continued to work or help out all through school and throughout her Nursing Career. 
Anne is a diamond in a dark bar, smiling and greeting locals, visitors, family and friends. As the saying goes ‘she didn't lick it off the stones’ it’s in her heritage. Her Pavlova has legendary status, no point in sharing her recipe …only Anne makes them that way. Maybe it’s the love she mixes into it. She has a great pride and love of her family’s heritage, and gets enjoyment chatting to those that have travelled from afar to visit her and her family. The familiar ‘Hiyaaa…’ and a quick wave as she glides across the floor, never empty handed..’Here for food?.take a seat, with ye in a mo’ all with that flashing smile that melts the toughest of men!  Whether or not one is having food Anne’s warm hearted charm will soon win you over and before you know it, you've had a Pint or two, full lunch and dessert!..Just leave room for that legendary dessert, her portions are as big as her heart!



Anne Kavanagh on Bloomsday June 16th.



So please remember the women may not always be insight, but their impression is there, it’s subtle, unassuming. But also remember to behave; this bar is also home to seven generations. That’s a lot of family to deal with.  'The Cucker Outter' is keeping an eye on the comes and goings of this family run pub..




Kathleen Kavanagh.





Monday 1 February 2016

John Kavanagh The Gravediggers A Love of Food & Pints -3 'Coddle'


John Kavanagh The Gravediggers A Love of Food & Pints - 3 Coddle

What’s happening today..

_________________________________________________________________________________

Ciaran Kavanagh, brings flavour back to Glasnevin
_________________________________________________________________________________



Naturally there are little changes in John Kavanaghs. Regulars and family can get nervous at the mention of ‘adding’ something.  A lot of the time people laugh at a suggestion or a possibility that ‘adding’ something can work in harmony with the existing charm. Ciaran came up against a lot of these reactions, put perseverance and a natural desire to make things work meant that John Kavanaghs reputation for good value and a great product will continue. Ciaran Kavanagh trained as a Chef in the 1990s, working closely with well-respected talented chefs he finished his training in Switzerland, then London. From London Ciaran worked in the Bahamas and then Italy where he ran a successful restaurant. However, home is where his heart lies and throughout his travels he knew Dublin and especially Glasnevin needed something new?
Ciaran knows the importance of a good team, to be surrounded by a great crew in a busy kitchen is important, as too is the bar and floor staff, all that, and family working together, make for a recipe to success. We hope the images and recipes here give a little insight to John Kavanaghs, but really the best is to call by and have a pint, meet the wonderful locals that give this old bar its renowned welcome it is known for. You never know you may even be privy to one of their legendary stories.
So from our small and happy ‘box kitchen’ we hope you enjoy the flavours..
A great group, Christine, Roberto, Ciaran & Phillo



 _______________________________________________________________________________

“that’s lovely…what’s in it?”  I hope to share a few favourite dishes that Ciaran and crew create in The Box Kitchen of the lounge. 
Loving all things Dublin and responsible for it’s come back to many a menu in the city, Ciaran’s Coddle is Number One…
________________________________________________________________________________

Ciaran’s Coddle, perhaps not the prettiest of dishes, but this most Dublin bowl of wholesomeness is perfect on cold evenings, or as a finish to a late night of pints, serve with ‘Batch’ bread great for the ‘;ol  soakage’. Good pork products are the key to this dish, support your local butcher and veg man as they usually have the best!
Coddle is a beautiful word, roughly meaning to nurse or to tend to someone when they are ill “to Coddle a child”.

Or Coddle to cook something gently in water just below boiling point, it’s a word that some say comes from Caudle a warm drink that was served to invalids in the 1700s.
But to Dubliners it’s a homely clear (depending on family tradition) broth with bacon, potatoes, onion and sausage. Traditionally served on Saturday evening and a dish usually made by the men of the house. There can be variations of this dish, some add milk, white pudding, gravy or even a can of tomatoes it’s what tastes good that matters. Hope you enjoy Ciaran’s Coddle from John Kavanagh’s The Gravediggers- 
I imagine there will be a lot of people that have a different version, one thing  I do hope is, it brings back a few memories for you. Or even better gets you making your own version of Coddle.

Here we have Niall, Emilou, Christine, Ciaran & Phillo
              



So here’s our Coddle, regularly served in The Lounge of John Kavanagh’s The Gravediggers.



CIARAN’S CODDLE
Ciaran’s Coddle: A dish made for radio, more than TV as visually it can be ‘curious?’
For 4 persons
You will need:
250 grams of Bacon Pieces
250 grams of Cocktail Sausages
1 Sheet of Bacon Ribs (cut in pieces)
1 Onion (diced) traditionally this would’ve been whole
4 Potatoes (peeled, diced, or sliced)
Sprig of Parsley & Thyme
Optional extra: White pudding
Put Bacon Pieces, & Ribs into a saucepan of water & bring to the boil. When it has boiled, take saucepan off the heat, strain & wash Bacon Pieces & Ribs under cold water.
Replace the Bacon Pieces & Ribs back into saucepan, with clean water, add Onion, Potatoes, Parsley & Thyme, cook everything for 1 hour, add Sausages and cook for a further 15 minutes.

Serve with batch bread, & enjoy

Perfect on Bloomsday too!

Happy Cooking.